One of our readers from Italy asked a question regarding the most recent article on cleaning by one of our technicians. In the article, the tech is reviewing his procedure for brushing using a bronze bore brush and TM Solution. He mentions following up with Bore Tech Eliminator but didn’t specify about how he applied it to the bore. The reader thought we should clarify the procedure about using a nylon brush with Bore Tech Eliminator.

You definitely should use a nylon bore brush or patches with that particular cleaning solution. The manufacturer recommends it and so do we. It is pretty hard on brushes plus gives you some false copper presence indication from the brush bristle residue. Thanks Mr. A for asking the question so we can clarify that. Bore Tech Eliminator is a very good product!

Thanks,

Bill Gravatt

Start checking your mailbox over the next few weeks because the Sinclair #2009-B Catalog is being mailed this week. If you are on our mailing list you should be getting a catalog in a week or two. We have a lot of new products including some great Sinclair reloading tool kits. A lot of our customers have been asking for tool boxes for many of our tools and we listened. If you can’t wait for the new catalog please visit our website where almost all of the new products are already on display!

It is a busy time of the year as we head into hunting season. Of course, competitive shooting is still going strong through the fall. The Sinclair F-T/R Team plus a couple of our guys shooting as individuals will be at the U.S. F-Class Nationals in Camp Butner, North Carolina. It is being hosted by the North State Shooting Club (September 30 thru October 3). For those of you not familiar with F-Class, it is normally shot at 600 and 1000 yards off the ground utilizing rests and bi-pods. The Open Class is open to any cartridge (.35 caliber and under) and can be shot off a rest or bi-pod with a rifle weight of approximately 22 lbs. The F-T/R Class is limited to the .223 Remington or the .308 Winchester and has to be shot off a bi-pod with a total rifle weight of approximately 18.2 lbs (including bi-pod). For more information, here are two great websites where you can find out more about F-Class shooting.

Team USA F-T/R Long Range Rifle Team

United States F-Class Open Rifle Team

I am being cautiously optimistic about primer availability because one of our suppliers indicated we may get a very large shipment of primers in the next week or two. Cross your fingers and hope it is substantiated. If you need some primers or know someone who does have them start checking our blog. We’ll post a notice regarding the primers as soon as they hit the warehouse dock!

Good Shooting,

Bill Gravatt

President – Sinclair International, Inc.

Editor’s Note: We have asked three (3) of our Technicians on staff to describe the cleaning procedure that they follow. Over the next three months, we’ll introduce each of their procedures. It is amazing how everyone takes a different approach to cleaning. Enjoy and feel free to contribute your procedure! Here is Ron’s procedure.

For as many years as shooters have been sending rounds down range in high power competition, there have been just about (probably even more) that many “correct” ways to properly clean and prepare the firearm for optimal performance.  Cleaning procedures have always been a “hot” topic among shooters and I am not trying to start a debate on who is right and who is wrong.

I am a firm believer that the first shot should always be useful as a true indicator of the performance of your record shots that follow.  It is very important that the first shot down range on a clean bore should always count. The following is the sequence of a cleaning technique that I have found very productive for high power competition, which translates well for all other shooting disciplines:

 1)      I use a Sinclair O-Ring style rod guide and Dewey cleaning rod to run 2 or 3 wet patches through the bore to wet the lands and grooves. Piercing a square patch off center will allow for better solvent coverage when you run it through the bore. I will usually leave the barrel sit for a few minutes while wet with solvent.  (Editor’s Note – See Phil Hoham’s article in August 2009 on offset patch stabbing)

2)      With a second cleaning rod and the appropriate bronze bore brush, I generously apply solvent to the brush and steadily stroke the brush down to the muzzle and back. (take care while the brush exits and re-enters the muzzle to avoid crown damage). I repeat this brushing stroke approximately 5 to 6 times making sure I bring the brush back into the rod guide far enough so the brush bristles reverse.

3)      I then pull the cleaning rod out, wipe the rod down, and then re-apply solvent to the brush. I then repeat the process outlined in Step 2. I repeat this process one time for each 10 shots fired. For example, if I shot 88 rounds in a high power match, I would complete Step 2 eight or nine times. I sometimes will run a wet patch through between brushings to push out debris.

4)      After the brush work is done, it is time to use patches again.  I like to run 3 wet patches through the barrel and let it soak for 10 to15 minutes.

5)      After the bore has soaked for 10 to 15 minutes, I run one to two dry patches and repeat with a wet patch.  Follow this up again with a dry patch.  Continue alternating wet and dry patching until there is no sign of copper (which is a blue/green color) or carbon/lead  (black) is present.

6)      After my rifle is clean, I like to put about 3 to 4 drops of a quality gun oil on a patch, and run through the bore about 4 times. This leaves a film of oil without over doing it.

I have tested this method of cleaning and found my first shot is within ¼ min of where the main group will print on the target. After experimenting with several methods of cleaning, I have found this to work for most rifles. In addition to my competition rifles, I use this technique on my hunting rifles. I have heard many people say they fire a fouler shot when hunting.  With this cleaning procedure , I have the confidence that a fouling shot is unnecessary thus not scaring any game off that may be within the next county!

I am currently using TM Solution for carbon and powder fouling. After powder fouling is out, I switch to Bore Tech Eliminator. I use both of these products in the house. They are family friendly, ammonia free, and will not clear out the room.

When cleaning at the range, I have found that Butch’s Bore Shine, and Montana Extreme to be equally as effective, but do not even think about using these inside the house.  These cleaning solvents like many others should only be used in a well ventilated area.

Good luck to all of you out there, and feel free to call any of us on the Sinclair Tech team with any questions, or to share your cleaning techniques and experiences.  Hope this tidbit of information helps you shoot even better, and your experiences even more memorable!

Ron Dague,

Reloading Technician

NRA High Power- Master

Sinclair International

Reloading dies if taken care of properly will provide years of service to their owner. Most dies are hardened and then micro-polished for that mirror finish many of the dies exhibit. Many of them are also treated with some type of rust preventative before they leave the factory floor.

The first step in taking care of your dies starts when you receive them. We advocate cleaning all new dies before you begin to use them. Beginning with your sizing dies; take the decapping assembly completely out of the die body. Flush the decapping assembly with a good degreaser (like Hornady One-Shot Cleaner & Dry Lube, Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber or Shooter’s Choice Quickscrub III) and wipe the expander ball clean. The only part of the decapping assembly that should come in contact with your brass is the expander ball and the decapping pin. Pay particular attention to the decapping ball as it determines the final interior dimension (bullet grip) of your case neck. Make sure you inspect it after cleaning to make sure that the surface is clean and free of burrs.

Next, flush the interior of the die body out with some more degreaser. Using a pistol cleaning rod or a dowel rod, push a couple of wet patches all the way through the die. Then run a couple of dry patches through. Reassemble your sizing die and you should be good to go.

Taking apart your seater is fairly simple depending on the complexity of your seating die. A standard seater just requires you to turn the seating stem out of the die body exposing the interior of the seater. Flush and clean both the body and seater as described above. Benchrest sliding sleeve seaters such as Forster or Redding Competition Dies have a few more parts involved. Just make sure as you take them apart you know how the spring is oriented and how any other parts such as chamber sleeves or seating plugs are arranged. Any springs or threads can be wiped down with a very rag or patch lightly coated with a fine oil. Make sure you inspect the opening in the seating stem for debris. You can twist a patch and use the end to clean out the smaller caliber stems/plugs.

Regular maintenance of your dies should include their routine cleaning. Sizing dies collect excess lube off the cases and this lube can begin to build up. We have seen dents formed in the case shoulder from the hydraulic compression of the excess lube in the die when the case was sized. We recommend cleaning the dies every 500 to 1000 rounds depending on how frequently they are used and the cleanliness of your reloading area. My reloading area is in the same building (different room) as my woodshop and I have to watch the dust so I keep most of my reloading dies covered or stored away. I keep a cover over my press and scales as well.

For longer term storage of your dies, I recommend putting a light oil or rust preventative on them, especially if you have a shop that has a humid environment.

Although, we titled this article about reloading dies, I might mention a few details about your reloading press. Cover it with an old towel if you can when not in use or buy a cover if one is available. Make sure you wipe the ram off occasionally and clean the area around the bottom part of the frame where the ram comes through. Primer grit and debris builds up there and can begin to wear on your ram and casting as it accumulates.

Pretty simple stuff but often neglected by many of us. Take care of your reloading tools and most of them will last a lifetime.

Bill Gravatt