Steps to Minimize Bullet Run-Out
On a daily basis in the Sinclair Call Center, our team of Reloading Technicians are assisting fellow reloaders with questions, suggestions, or issues they are having with their process. One of the most commonly asked or discussed topic is bullet run-out. Run-out can be described as how much the entire loaded round is out of a true straight line from center point on the case head to the point of the bullet.Run-Out is more formally known as concentricity of an object. “Concentric” comes from the Latin wordfor “common center”. True concentricity is an object sharing a common center point or axis throughout. When measuring bullet run out you are checking everything from your reloading sequence has properly worked to create a loaded round that is as close to concentric as possible. Poor bullet run-out can cause poor and inconsistent accuracy, and variations in bullet velocities. The truer the loaded round the more consistent your results will be on paper and across the chronograph.
As most of us know we do not live in a perfect world. Even with the most care taken in reloading including detailed case prep, extra care taken in the process with top end die and press set up, etc, run-out can and will still occur. There are some steps that can be taken in your reloading sequence at the bench and even with your tools that can minimize bullet run-out. Before we jump into these areas let’s go over how to properly measure run-out.
Run-out is generally measured in thousandths of an inch with a concentricity gauge. There are many options of concentricity gauges to choose from that work well. Some work on loaded rounds only, some have a bullet straightening feature, and a few work on both loaded rounds and empty cases for checking case neck concentricity. The tool of choice by the Sinclair Reloading Tech Staff is the Sinclair Concentricity Gauge (Part # 09-175).
This tool is a mainstay on my bench, and it is used about as much as I use my reloading press! The tool uses two sets of bearings that are set on lateral length adjustable anodized aluminum blocks to accommodate cartridges from .221 Fireball sized cases up to .50 BMG. The indicator is set on a height adjustable swiveling base on a stand that can be used for checking bullet or case neck run-out. The adjustable blocks ride aligned in a precision milled slot. The entire set up is on an anodized base plate that gives excellent support during the process that is crucial to operation and accuracy. Basically the operation consists of placing a loaded round (for checking bullet run-out) or an empty case (for case run-out) on the bearings with the indicator end touching the chosen point to be measured. The case is easily spun with one finger as the indicator measures the amount of run-out. Once this process has been done a few times it is a fast and accurate means of measurement. In terms of indicator type being used, whether dial or digital, I actually prefer a standard dial indicator (pictured below) over the digital type. My reason for this choice is that you can see the needle jump when run-out is present. I believe this to be easier and faster than looking at digital numbers while measuring.
Case Prep Steps to Minimize Run-Out
As mentioned earlier, there are a few steps that can be taken in your reloading process that can help minimize bullet run-out. The first steps that can be taken are in your case prep regiment. One of the first areas to look into with new brass is to check neck wall thickness consistency. You are looking for cases that have case necks that have fairly consistent thickness around the diameter. Using a tool such as the Sinclair Case Neck Sorting Tool (Part # 59-1000) can quickly help you determine the consistency of the thickness of the neck walls. Standard brass may have a thickness variance as much as one to two thousandths of an inch. Higher quality brass will have a more consistent neck wall thickness with little or no variance. Inconsistent neck wall thickness can cause bullet run-out since different pressures are applied to the diameter of the seated bullet. Either sort through and cull your brass for consistent walls or perform a “cleaning cut” by neck turning the difference in consistency off the necks of the entire lot to create common consistency. (Neck turning is a whole other cup of tea and will be discussed in future features).
Other areas of case prep that can make a difference in bullet run-out is to maintain consistent case length and trim when needed, lightly inside chamfer and outside de-burr the case mouths. I prefer the Sinclair 28 degree “VLD” inside case mouth chamfering tool (Part # 26-6250) for most of my rifle and even pistol case prep. Additionally clean out and wipe off the necks of the cases once prep time is finished.
Sizing Steps to Minimize Run-Out
One of the most common steps in the reloading process that contributes to bullet run-out occurs is the sizing operation. If improper techniques are used or there are issues with the sizing die set up, a once perfectly concentric case can become out of whack. By using the proper dies for your application, properly setting up the die/shell holder or floating the de-capping/expander assembly, you can eliminate problems before they happen.
The choice sizing die by many of us on the technical staff is the Redding Type-S series of dies. These are full-Length or neck sizing dies that utilize a removable/changeable neck bushing (sold separately) to size the neck according to your application. These dies are machined with true precision and quality in mind. The Type-S dies come with a standard de-capping assembly with a caliber specific expander ball in place. In addition to this an undersized retainer to hold the de-capping pin is included with the die. In my experience with these dies I use the standard expander ball with new, unfired brass on the initial re-size. I will then use the undersized retainer in place of the expander ball with brass that has been fired. I have found this step crucial in my reloading regiment to minimize bullet run out. The use of the expander ball can cause a few thousandths of run-out when the case is being pulled back out of the sizing die. With the undersized retainer in place the only thing that touches the neck of the case in sizing is the bushing. If you prefer to use an expander ball, Redding offers caliber specific carbide floating expander balls that fit on the de-capping rod. This free floating expander ball will self center on the case neck, and reduce the amount of run-out that can be caused by a standard expander ball.
When setting up a Type-S sizing die, set the neck bushing into the die with the numbers facing down toward the body of the die. Tighten the de-capping assembly until it contacts the bushing and then back it off ¼ of a turn. This allows the bushing to free float in the die. You should be able to hear the bushing rattle if you shake the die. Having the bushing free floating self centers the neck, and again minimizes any run-out that can occur.
If you prefer other brands of sizing dies there are a few tricks that people use to minimize run-out as well. Many reloaders claim that the use of an “O”-ring at the base of the de-capping assembly lock nut will float the assembly and help self center during sizing. Another trick that has been used is to remove the retaining pin on the shell holder slot on the press ram, and use an “O”- ring in its place to hold the shell holder in place. This allows the shell holder to self center during sizing as well.
Seating Steps to Minimize Run-Out
Another common step in the reloading process where bullet run-out can be caused is in the bullet seating process. The first thing you can do is to use a high quality die with a sliding sleeve. The sliding sleeve perfectly aligns the case with the bullet to be seated. Good examples of these dies are the Redding Competition Micrometer bullet seating dies, Forster Ultra Seaters, or RCBS Competition Seating dies. All of these dies utilize a micrometer top to precisely set seating depth. They are all very high quality dies that have tight tolerances to maximize bullet straightness during seating.
Of the many questions we receive most of the callers are trying to seat long pointed bullets such as the Berger VLD or Hornady A-Max. One problem that the reloader faces with longer bullets is that they are so long that the standard seating die stem (the part that pushes the bullet into the case) is not machined deep enough to contact these bullets properly. The point of the bullet is “bottoming out” in the stem and the result is off center seating and/or rings and dents on the bullet nose. What should be done if you plan on using such bullets, is to purchase a “VLD” style seating stem, which is cut to accommodate the longer bullets. The use of this stem results in truer seating of the bullet without leaving a ring or marring the tip of the bullet.
Besides using a traditional press and threaded seating die another great way to get a true bullet seat is by using an arbor press and Wilson chamber type seating die. These dies are cut to very tight tolerances and have proven themselves for years as the main choice for bench rest enthusiasts. The design of the die positively aligns the case with the bullet as they are both captured by the die before the bullet is pushed straight into the case by the stem. These seating dies are available with the standard seating cap and stem or an additional micrometer top can be added for precise adjustment. Wilson also offers a stainless seating die with an integral micrometer seating head. This process is quick, true, and a great way to get the most out of your reloading!
Finally another trick used by many in the seating process is to turn the case while the bullet is being seated. Some people claim this will keep things straight. What they do is raise the ram in increments while seating and rotate the case in the shellholder in increments of 90 degrees from the original starting while the bullet is being seated. Personally I have tried this and have seen no significant difference at all. However you may be the judge of this one. It makes sense, and maybe I should try this a little more before I rule it out.
Bullet Straightening Tools
For those who want to mechanically straighten a loaded round there are a few tools out there that will help you true them up. The Hornady Lock- and- Load Concentricity Gauge (Part #050076) has a straightening feature. The gauge uses a threaded screw that you can tighten down on the bullet and observe how much you have straightened it out on the included dial indicator or how much more adjustment is needed. It can take a little bit of trial and error to get this just right, but it does work. Additionally there are other tools on the market that straighten out bullets. However, one concern that comes up is what are you doing to the neck of the case in terms of neck tension? If any of you have used these types of tool with success please post something on our blog and let your fellow reloaders know. From my experience it is time consuming, and I would rather spend my spare time loading and shooting.
Again, it is not a perfect world…
Whether you follow the aforementioned steps or processes or have tricks of your own and no matter how meticulous you are or how good your components or tools are; run-out will still show up. A reloader can drive themselves crazy trying to make each and every loaded round a true “0” in run-out. You will still see some minimal amount no matter what you do. Set yourself a standard of maximum allowable run-out for your loads. For instance for my Long Range 600 and 1000 yard F-Class loads I like to see .002” or less. I average .0015” and see a few in the range up to .004”. I spin each loaded round on my Sinclair Concentricity Gauge and sort them by run-out. Those that run over .002” I use for sighters or practice. I have tried to batch similar measured rounds together for competition, but have not seen a difference. However, I feel this gives me a sense of security knowing that I am shooting the truest loads possible. Run-out can make a difference in long range group consistency and minimizing the gap will maximize your potential. Not only will your loads shoot better but you will have one less thing to worry about when you are lining up the sights on the target. Now all you have to worry about is what forces of nature are on hand between you and the target.
Good Shooting!!!
Pete Petros
Lead Reloading Technician
NRA Certified Metallic Reloading Instructor
Sinclair International


June 25th, 2010 at 4:11 pm
I was meticulous when I first got my Hornady concentricity tool. I was using an old RCBS single stage press, and I was able to take rounds that were out by 0.005″ and reduce it to less than .001″ in some cases.
Problem was, it made NO noticeable difference in my shooting. Then I changed to a Lee Classic Cast press, and the ammo came out all under .002″ run-out without touching it. So my advise is get a better press, and don’t worry about run-out! Best of all, they are about the same price.
June 25th, 2010 at 4:32 pm
Pete,
I use the Hornady Concentricity Guage & find that my 222 loads made with Lee Collet dies never have over .002 runout. I’ve been amazed.
June 25th, 2010 at 4:46 pm
Pete, Excellent article on bullet run-out. Having recently entered the world of attempting to develop more accurate reloads(purchasing Redding S-dies, etc.) I really appreciate the input on adjustments and techniques especially since Redding’s seating die adjustment instructions are rather vague for the uninitiated. Thanks again! Art.
June 25th, 2010 at 5:23 pm
Would you care to comment on using the press ram to push against the seating die prior to tightening the lock nut. Some believe it holds the die straingt in the trheads while the nut is tightened.
June 25th, 2010 at 6:42 pm
Thank you for a great article. My son is an excellent shot and a gunsmith in training, so I let him test loads for accuracy. We are getting very results in his accurized firearms and I’m learning a lot. I would say that I can produce the best ammo using Redding seating dies and Lee factory crimp dies on my Redding T-7 turret press. I will gladly pay for the Redding seating dies and save money on the others…thank you, Sinclair, for offering individual dies at prices as good as the sets. We have seen a measurable improvement from uniforming primer pockets and deburring flash holes in new 30-06 and 30-30 brass. We like Lapua Lock Base boattail bullets. I use the Hornady Concentricity Gauge on everything we will shoot for accuracy, and find it’s rare to get a bullet more than .0002 out of true. If I have to adjust the bullet I run it through the Lee Factory Crimp die again and put it back on the gauge. Then I use either a styrofoam block or a plastic box with divisions to keep the bullets from getting bumped. I wish the Hornady gauge had come with more detailed instructions, but I guess it’s so new the shared knowledge hasn’t built up yet (which is another reason why this article is appreciated!). Best regards, Doug Pratt
June 26th, 2010 at 5:44 am
On the use of the Redding ‘S”die…I’ve been using a 0.244″ bushing on my .223 Remington brass for over-the-course loads in my AR15. I really like the idea of not using an expanding nipple for the least ‘working’ of match brass. First question: Why face the numbers ‘down’ on the bushing? The bushing looks symmetrical making orientation irrelevant. Second question: If the seating stem is backed off 1/4 turn from flush, won’t this leave an unsized ring at the shoulder-neck junction? Third question: From the very first use of the bushing die, I noticed a measureable ‘bell’ in the case mouth after sizing with the bushing. It’s a few thousandths of a bell and I can’t explain it. Anybody else seen this phenomenon (I set the die up with the bushing flush in its cavity).
June 28th, 2010 at 2:25 pm
Very good article on concentricity. I have several gages for checking concenticity including the Sinclair gage in the article, a Bersin tool (checks conc. and can make an adjustment), and the new Hornady Lock-N-Load gage.
For those using the Hornady gage and getting readings of .001″ – .002″ run-out thinking your concentricity problems are over……think again ! The Hornady gage does not take into account what the case body run-out is which is what touches the chamber.
When I received my Hornady gage I used it to check some ammo that I had just reloaded (NOT match grade). I usually don’t have a concenticity problem with reloads but checking 100 cartridges , the run-out of every bullet was .001″ or less. I’ve “never” loaded 100 rounds with run-out reading that small which made me suspect. I checked the bullet run-out with my Sinclair gage and Bersin tool and I had readings of .001″ to as high as .006″.
Just now….I took 5 factory made .308 cartridges and checked them on all three style gages. With the Sinclair gage the reading averaged from .004″ to .0065″ and with the Bersin tool (larger indicator with better discrimination) they ran from .0035″ to .0075 but all five cartridges checked with the Hornady Lock-N-Load gage measured the same- .001″.
Again….the Sinclair and Bersin tool gauge from the case body to the bullet where with the Hornady gage, it holds the case at the rim and bullet tip which evidently…..doesn’t show what the actual bullet run-out is as well as the Sinclair and Bersin tool.
How I check my reloaded ammo now is to first use the Sinclair gage because it’s not only accurate but is fast and when I find a bullet that runs out more then .002″, I put it in my Bersin tool and adjust the bullet slightly to be within my .002″ run-out limit.
Now….what is happening to the case neck and/or bullet with this adjustment is a whole other subject but I have yet to see a problem on the target from making these adjustments.
June 29th, 2010 at 11:21 am
What I done to reduce runout in my 30/378 was to deprime the cases with a Lee depriming rod, then remove the depriming pin in my sizing die and leave the stem loose so that upon removal of the case from the die it would find it’s own center. I then used a Hornady 300 win mag seating die with the collet to aline the bullet with the case. This helped, but I still purchased from Sinclair the Hornady straighten tool.I find this tool work very well after some practice. What this seems to have done for me is keep under control the ever present flier I use to get.
July 6th, 2010 at 2:43 pm
Sam
Thanks for the question, and for reading the article. I have just returned from a vacation, sorry for the delay in response. You have brought up a very good point……
There are so many techniques and views on this topic. It makes sense to raise the ram to push the die into place while tightening the lock nut. The only true way to determine the effectiveness of this is to try it and see if it works. I have done this before and saw no difference in result from not doing so. I believe that most premium presses and dies should align fairly well with minimal variance. For the minimal amount of variance only comparing this will let you know. I failed to use this step in the article, because it is a “grey” area, if it works or not. I will get the chance to check this out and will report the results. If you give it a shot, let me know if you have any positive results from this!
Thanks and good shooting
Pete
July 6th, 2010 at 2:44 pm
Wiley,
Thanks for the question, and reading the article. I am sorry for the delay, I was on vacation last week.
To answer the first question, This comes from Redding directly, and we have followed this rule for some time. The number side of the bushing is checked with a pin gauge for accuracy. There can be a slight taper on the non-number side (less than .0005”if at all).
As for the noticeable ring on the neck; Yes there will be an un-sized ring, but it should not affect load performance, feeding issues, etc. I have noticed very little with my loads without a problem. If ¼ turn is too much go with 1/8 or less to allow the bushing to float.
Belling can occur on certain brass from time to time from the not using the expander ball. It is from the springing back of the brass after sizing. If this is an issue to reduce these, consider the carbide expander ball and lubricant on the inside of the neck. I have not had an issue with this and am not sure if it creates any negative load effects.
Hope this helps!
Good Shooting
Pete
August 19th, 2010 at 6:58 pm
When using concentric loads (.002 or less) in an AR-15, where the round is chambered with some force at an angle, will chambering the round result in concentricity problems? If so, what would the guage reading be (typical) if the unfired round is ejected and measured for concentricity.
August 23rd, 2010 at 4:07 pm
Dear Ken,
This is something I personally have never checked since I only use my AR-15 for 3-gun matches. Also I have never heard any of the Marine Corp. or Army team shooters comment on this. I will check on this and get back with you.
Take care!
Phil Hoham
Reloading tech/sales
Sinclair International
philh@sinclairintl.com
1-800-717-8211
October 10th, 2010 at 4:25 pm
Some good information here. I agree with GM on the Hornady concentricity gage and would take the measurements with a grain of salt. However, it does correct the runout well. I’ve had extremely good luck using the Hornady tool for runout correction and the Sinclair gage for the measurements. I feel the runout measurements should be made near the tip of the bullet (about a quarter inch in this case) and the Hornady gage can’t do that. I set up the Hornady gage to apply force to the base of the bullet in the neck, 270 Win in this case. I go back and forth between the tools and apply the correction conservatively and repeat as necessary. I’m currently experimenting with Federal Power Shok 130 grain 270 Win ($13.67 from Walmart). The runout for most of the rounds can be reduced to less than .001 inch for the bullet measurement. What’s ineresting is that the neck runout for this particular round holds or improves as well. I reload, and am pursuing that also, but it’s interesting to see what can be done with factory loads. No sense mentioning the group sizes since everyone who posts on the internet puts all bullets in the same hole at 1000 yards, or further. If you have both gages, try it. You don’t have to invest another nickel. I will say that it’s much easier to work with 270 Win than 243 Win due to the differences i neck length.