By Pete Petros-Lead Reloading Technician, Sinclair International

After hearing about great results that shooters have been having with the original .284 Winchester I decided to re-barrel and chamber my factory Savage F-Class 6.5mm X .284 after 1200 rounds of ¼ MOA accuracy had opened up a bit. I contacted Dave Kiff from Pacific Tool and Die to have a reamer made based on the Norma specifications for the .284 cartridge necked up to 7mm with a tight .313” neck. Mark Penrod of Penrod Precision in North Manchester did the art work on the rifle. I had him use my new reamer to chamber a 31” Bartlein 1-9” twist 5R barrel that tapers from 1.25” to .900”. He blue printed and bedded my action in the modified factory stock and tweaked the Rifle Basix SAV-2 Trigger. I received the new upgraded rifle two weeks before I left for the 2009 F-Class Nationals at Camp Butner, North Carolina. I had to squeeze break in time and load development in a short time period. Fortunately, I had all of my brass prepped and ready to go once I had the rifle home.

I took the Lapua brass and expanded it from 6.5mm to 7mm with a Sinclair Expander die and mandrel. Once that was complete I turned the necks down with a Sinclair NT-4000 Neck turning tool from .0145” to .0135” to allow .002” clearance from the chamber. One step I took and was glad I did was to turn all of this brass under power with the use of a Sinclair Power Center and Case Driver/Holder. This made the job much easier without losing accuracy. Using a Redding Type-S Full Length Die with a .309” bushing I assured a perfect .002” of neck tension. The bullets I chose to build my load on was the Berger 7mm 180 Grain VLD, seating them into the case with a Redding Competition micrometer seating die. This bullet has proved itself with others shooting this cartridge. This high BC bullet is hard to beat at long ranges.

The 6.5 X .284 Norma with 140 Berger VLD on left and .284 Winchester on Right with 180 Berger VLD. A .020” bullet diameter difference, but a performance and barrel life boost!

In load development I began working with Hodgdon H4831 SC powder with CCI BR2 primers. Once again this had proved to be a great powder with other shooters and I already had a good amount left over from loading for the factory rifle. After break-in and a few trips to the range I settled on a load, and a seating depth of .020” of bullet jump to go to take to the nationals. I was blown away by the load I had chosen. I found it to chronograph at 2820 FPS with an ES of 6 FPS! Additionally, it was shooting ¾” groups at 300 yds! What was best about this was that I had stumbled on this load early in development and could work on other areas before the competition.

Almost a year has passed and the rifle is shooting better than when it was new. With around 900 rounds through the same barrel I have not seen the slightest effect on the throat or rest of the barrel that would show signs of burning out. One thing that I had found after the barrel had broken in is that I noted velocity increase to 2920 FPS. However, the group size remained tight and ES over the chronograph remained very low without any noted pressure signs. At the same time I gained a full MOA from my 300 yard zero to 600 yards. Can’t complain about that!

Pete’s rifle that has been modified from its original factory form and converted into a .284 Win. tack driver!

I have found the .284 Winchester to be a more superior cartridge to the 6.5mm X .284 in my experience in 600 and 100 yard F-Class Competition. Besides the longer barrel life it has other advantages. The ability to shoot a heavier bullet with a higher BC excels in wind. I have found that this cartridge has proved to be more consistent across the chronograph, and retains its accuracy. It definitely has not been as touchy as the 6.5mm. Who would have thought that going up .020” in bullet diameter would have made such a difference. There is a slight recoil gain over the 6.5mm but nothing to flinch at.

Group shot at 500 Yards during a practice match with the .284. Note the hole on right under micrometer blade was from another rifle in .30 caliber.

So if you are looking for a great long range cartridge, check out the .284 Winchester. Sometimes the original is best as in this case, it sure is my opinion! You can use either factory Winchester brass in .284 Win. or any 6.5mm X .284 brass and neck up in a simple process. I highly recommend that Lapua brass is used. I have 8 firings out of the original brass, anneal every three firings, and it still works wonders! When working up the load be cautious of on-line loads, use official loading manual data and work your way up in powder volume. Many .284 shooters such as myself have used Hodgdon 4831 SC with great results but I have also heard of good results with H4350, Vihtavouri 560, and Reloader 17. Give it a shot, you will not be disappointed!
Good Shooting!

Contacts
Pacific Tool and Gauge- 541-826-5808
Penrod Precision- Mark Penrod- 260-982-8385

By Pete Petros-Lead Reloading Technician, Sinclair International

For generations reloaders have been trying to find the ultimate long range cartridge. Many wildcat cartridges have come and gone through the years. Many reloaders invented “new” cartridges by necking up or down a parent case, or blowing out the shoulders or body. Some of the more popular and well performing ones became production loads and mainstays of competitive shooters. Cartridges such as the 6.5mm X .284 Norma, .260 Remington, 6.5mm-06 and the many 6mm’s that have been based off the .243 case are only a handful of these. As technology has increased it has introduced more efficient and high energy powders, super sleek bullets with high ballistic co-efficients, and the means to prep components and measure them for consistency.

The past two years in long range, shooting a cartridge that has been proving itself especially in the F-Class Open competition is the .284 Winchester, the parent case of the popular 6.5mm X .284 Norma. This old original is now making a comeback. Originally designed by Winchester in the early ‘60’s for the Short Action Model 88 and 100 rifles, it was meant to pack the same punch as a .280 Remington (7mm Express), but in a short action configuration. Winchester developed the shorter case with a rebated rim the same size as the .308 Winchester and gave it a larger case head close to the same size as some belted magnums. The original cartridge did prove itself as an efficient hunting round, but immediately it gained the interests of reloaders looking for new wildcats. It has been modified down to .22 caliber all the way up to .35 caliber and beyond through the years. It was found that necking down to the parent case to smaller calibers would create super high velocities with decent accuracy.

The 6.5mm X .284 Norma developed from the .284 Winchester parent case became the most popular cartridge in the .284 Family. The difference between the “Winchester” and the “Norma” .284 is that the Norma case is .005” thicker in the web area of the case head. The same dies can be used for both varieties.

With the increase and availability of more 6.5mm bullets with higher performance designs, the 6.5mm X .284 Norma became a force to be reckoned with in the long range circles. This cartridge has proved that it is flat shooting and super accurate, and has won many fans. It has become so popular that major manufacturers have chambered rifles in 6.5mm X .284 and factory loaded ammunition is also available. However as accurate as it may be this cartridge has one large disadvantage. It is a true barrel burner and if a shooter is lucky they will get between 1500-2000 rounds before re-barreling. This is where my experience with its parent cartridge began……Continued next Week!

On a daily basis in the Sinclair Call Center, our team of Reloading Technicians are assisting fellow reloaders with questions, suggestions, or issues they are having with their process. One of the most commonly asked or discussed topic is bullet run-out. Run-out can be described as how much the entire loaded round is out of a true straight line from center point on the case head to the point of the bullet.Run-Out is more formally known as concentricity of an object. “Concentric” comes from the Latin wordfor “common center”. True concentricity is an object sharing a common center point or axis throughout. When measuring bullet run out you are checking everything from your reloading sequence has properly worked to create a loaded round that is as close to concentric as possible. Poor bullet run-out can cause poor and inconsistent accuracy, and variations in bullet velocities. The truer the loaded round the more consistent your results will be on paper and across the chronograph.

As most of us know we do not live in a perfect world. Even with the most care taken in reloading including detailed case prep, extra care taken in the process with top end die and press set up, etc, run-out can and will still occur. There are some steps that can be taken in your reloading sequence at the bench and even with your tools that can minimize bullet run-out. Before we jump into these areas let’s go over how to properly measure run-out.

Run-out is generally measured in thousandths of an inch with a concentricity gauge. There are many options of concentricity gauges to choose from that work well. Some work on loaded rounds only, some have a bullet straightening feature, and a few work on both loaded rounds and empty cases for checking case neck concentricity. The tool of choice by the Sinclair Reloading Tech Staff is the Sinclair Concentricity Gauge (Part # 09-175).

This tool is a mainstay on my bench, and it is used about as much as I use my reloading press! The tool uses two sets of bearings that are set on lateral length adjustable anodized aluminum blocks to accommodate cartridges from .221 Fireball sized cases up to .50 BMG. The indicator is set on a height adjustable swiveling base on a stand that can be used for checking bullet or case neck run-out. The adjustable blocks ride aligned in a precision milled slot. The entire set up is on an anodized base plate that gives excellent support during the process that is crucial to operation and accuracy. Basically the operation consists of placing a loaded round (for checking bullet run-out) or an empty case (for case run-out) on the bearings with the indicator end touching the chosen point to be measured. The case is easily spun with one finger as the indicator measures the amount of run-out. Once this process has been done a few times it is a fast and accurate means of measurement. In terms of indicator type being used, whether dial or digital, I actually prefer a standard dial indicator (pictured below) over the digital type. My reason for this choice is that you can see the needle jump when run-out is present. I believe this to be easier and faster than looking at digital numbers while measuring.

Sinclair Concentricity Gauge w/dial indicator

Case Prep Steps to Minimize Run-Out    

As mentioned earlier, there are a few steps that can be taken in your reloading process that can help minimize bullet run-out. The first steps that can be taken are in your case prep regiment. One of the first areas to look into with new brass is to check neck wall thickness consistency. You are looking for cases that have case necks that have fairly consistent thickness around the diameter. Using a tool such as the Sinclair Case Neck Sorting Tool (Part # 59-1000) can quickly help you determine the consistency of the thickness of the neck walls. Standard brass may have a thickness variance as much as one to two thousandths of an inch. Higher quality brass will have a more consistent neck wall thickness with little or no variance. Inconsistent neck wall thickness can cause bullet run-out since different pressures are applied to the diameter of the seated bullet. Either sort through and cull your brass for consistent walls or perform a “cleaning cut” by neck turning the difference in consistency off the necks of the entire lot to create common consistency. (Neck turning is a whole other cup of tea and will be discussed in future features).

Other areas of case prep that can make a difference in bullet run-out is to maintain consistent case length and trim when needed, lightly inside chamfer and outside de-burr the case mouths. I prefer the Sinclair 28 degree “VLD” inside case mouth chamfering tool (Part # 26-6250) for most of my rifle and even pistol case prep. Additionally clean out and wipe off the necks of the cases once prep time is finished.

Sizing Steps to Minimize Run-Out

One of the most common steps in the reloading process that contributes to bullet run-out occurs is the sizing operation. If improper techniques are used or there are issues with the sizing die set up, a once perfectly concentric case can become out of whack. By using the proper dies for your application, properly setting up the die/shell holder or floating the de-capping/expander assembly, you can eliminate problems before they happen.

The choice sizing die by many of us on the technical staff is the Redding Type-S series of dies. These are full-Length or neck sizing dies that utilize a removable/changeable neck bushing (sold separately) to size the neck according to your application. These dies are machined with true precision and quality in mind. The Type-S dies come with a standard de-capping assembly with a caliber specific expander ball in place. In addition to this an undersized retainer to hold the de-capping pin is included with the die. In my experience with these dies I use the standard expander ball with new, unfired brass on the initial re-size. I will then use the undersized retainer in place of the expander ball with brass that has been fired. I have found this step crucial in my reloading regiment to minimize bullet run out. The use of the expander ball can cause a few thousandths of run-out when the case is being pulled back out of the sizing die. With the undersized retainer in place the only thing that touches the neck of the case in sizing is the bushing. If you prefer to use an expander ball, Redding offers caliber specific carbide floating expander balls that fit on the de-capping rod. This free floating expander ball will self center on the case neck, and reduce the amount of run-out that can be caused by a standard expander ball.

When setting up a Type-S sizing die, set the neck bushing into the die with the numbers facing down toward the body of the die. Tighten the de-capping assembly until it contacts the bushing and then back it off ¼ of a turn. This allows the bushing to free float in the die. You should be able to hear the bushing rattle if you shake the die. Having the bushing free floating self centers the neck, and again minimizes any run-out that can occur.

If you prefer other brands of sizing dies there are a few tricks that people use to minimize run-out as well. Many reloaders claim that the use of an “O”-ring at the base of the de-capping assembly lock nut will float the assembly and help self center during sizing. Another trick that has been used is to remove the retaining pin on the shell holder slot on the press ram, and use an “O”- ring in its place to hold the shell holder in place. This allows the shell holder to self center during sizing as well.

Seating Steps to Minimize Run-Out

Another common step in the reloading process where bullet run-out can be caused is in the bullet seating process. The first thing you can do is to use a high quality die with a sliding sleeve. The sliding sleeve perfectly aligns the case with the bullet to be seated. Good examples of these dies are the Redding Competition Micrometer bullet seating dies, Forster Ultra Seaters, or RCBS Competition Seating dies. All of these dies utilize a micrometer top to precisely set seating depth. They are all very high quality dies that have tight tolerances to maximize bullet straightness during seating.

Of the many questions we receive most of the callers are trying to seat long pointed bullets such as the Berger VLD or Hornady A-Max. One problem that the reloader faces with longer bullets is that they are so long that the standard seating die stem (the part that pushes the bullet into the case) is not machined deep enough to contact these bullets properly. The point of the bullet is “bottoming out” in the stem and the result is off center seating and/or rings and dents on the bullet nose. What should be done if you plan on using such bullets, is to purchase a “VLD” style seating stem, which is cut to accommodate the longer bullets. The use of this stem results in truer seating of the bullet without leaving a ring or marring the tip of the bullet.

Besides using a traditional press and threaded seating die another great way to get a true bullet seat is by using an arbor press and Wilson chamber type seating die. These dies are cut to very tight tolerances and have proven themselves for years as the main choice for bench rest enthusiasts. The design of the die positively aligns the case with the bullet as they are both captured by the die before the bullet is pushed straight into the case by the stem. These seating dies are available with the standard seating cap and stem or an additional micrometer top can be added for precise adjustment. Wilson also offers a stainless seating die with an integral micrometer seating head. This process is quick, true, and a great way to get the most out of your reloading!

Finally another trick used by many in the seating process is to turn the case while the bullet is being seated. Some people claim this will keep things straight. What they do is raise the ram in increments while seating and rotate the case in the shellholder in increments of 90 degrees from the original starting while the bullet is being seated. Personally I have tried this and have seen no significant difference at all. However you may be the judge of this one. It makes sense, and maybe I should try this a little more before I rule it out.

Bullet Straightening Tools    

For those who want to mechanically straighten a loaded round there are a few tools out there that will help you true them up. The Hornady Lock- and- Load Concentricity Gauge (Part #050076) has a straightening feature. The gauge uses a threaded screw that you can tighten down on the bullet and observe how much you have straightened it out on the included dial indicator or how much more adjustment is needed. It can take a little bit of trial and error to get this just right, but it does work. Additionally there are other tools on the market that straighten out bullets. However, one concern that comes up is what are you doing to the neck of the case in terms of neck tension? If any of you have used these types of tool with success please post something on our blog and let your fellow reloaders know. From my experience it is time consuming, and I would rather spend my spare time loading and shooting. 

Hornady Lock-N-Load Concentricity Gauge

Again, it is not a perfect world…

Whether you follow the aforementioned steps or processes or have tricks of your own and no matter how meticulous you are or how good your components or tools are; run-out will still show up. A reloader can drive themselves crazy trying to make each and every loaded round a true “0” in run-out. You will still see some minimal amount no matter what you do. Set yourself a standard of maximum allowable run-out for your loads. For instance for my Long Range 600 and 1000 yard F-Class loads I like to see .002” or less. I average .0015” and see a few in the range up to .004”. I spin each loaded round on my Sinclair Concentricity Gauge and sort them by run-out. Those that run over .002” I use for sighters or practice. I have tried to batch similar measured rounds together for competition, but have not seen a difference. However, I feel this gives me a sense of security knowing that I am shooting the truest loads possible. Run-out can make a difference in long range group consistency and minimizing the gap will maximize your potential. Not only will your loads shoot better but you will have one less thing to worry about when you are lining up the sights on the target. Now all you have to worry about is what forces of nature are on hand between you and the target.

Good Shooting!!!

Pete Petros
Lead Reloading Technician
NRA Certified Metallic Reloading Instructor
Sinclair International

(This is the second installment of Bullet Prep, “Giving You the Long Range Edge”, that appeared in last month’s “Reloading Press”. The first installment is available on the archives on the Sinclair International home page.)

Note from the author: Last month we had discussed the initial stages of bullet sorting techniques to enhance consistency in long range loading. Since the release of part I of this article, I have had a few questions, and suggestions from readers. One of the questions was regarding sorting bullets by weight. Some reloaders prefer to do this after all of the measuring, trimming, and pointing are completed. I prefer to do this first to see what spread and percentage of total bullet weight differential I find and cull out those that are over or under a .5% window. What this means is if I have a 180 grain bullet I have a window of roughly 179.5 to 180.5 grains where the lot being weigh sorted are acceptable. Anything below or above that figure, I use for practice or fouling shots. You may decide to use a higher % figure, but with the quality of today’s bullets it is hard to find large variations. They do occur due to defects in the manufacturing process, and this weigh sorting process is culling out those that are the “odd balls”
Another question arose about base to ogive sorting, and if sorting by bullet bearing surface (boat-tail junction “pressure ring, or heel” to ogive with the use of two comparators) was more critical in terminal performance of the bullet. I spoke with Bryan Litz, author of “Applied Ballistics for Long range Shooting”, and lead ballistician for Berger Bullets. Bryan informed me that the most critical measurement in bullet sorting for consistency is in fact the base to ogive measurement. According to Litz, this measurement is in fact sorting the bullets for consistent Ballistic Coefficients (BC). What occurs in the bullet forming process is what determines the bullets physical ballistic qualities. When a bullet is forced into the forming die a few factors come in to place to determine the outcome. These factors include the amount of lubrication used and how it can change the force exerted on the bullet when being formed. If the bullet is forced further than it should into the die, the outcome is a bullet with a short bearing surface, long ogive, and narrow meplat. If not forced far enough, the result is the opposite, long bearing surface, short ogive, and wide meplat. This is why variations are found in bullets, and by sorting them by the base to ogive you are sorting by the best method available. Measuring the bearing surface makes sense, but Litz has found through experimentation more inconsistent results with this method. He explained that if you look at the pressure ring of a bullet under magnification there are inconsistencies that resemble a wavy line. The heel of a bullet is not a repeatable surface like the bullet’s ogive, and these inconsistencies will cause varied measurements. Most would think that the bearing surface variants of a bullets would affect velocity spreads, but Litz claims that that factor is “down on the list”, and in tests showed little if any effect.

Now that we have discussed sorting by various methods, once you have established your batches there are some additional steps you can take to maximize the overall performance of your bullets. These methods are meplat trimming or uniforming, and bullet pointing. These steps can result in dramatically improved results in consistency and even gains in elevation at long ranges Essentially what you are doing now is adding “octane to the fuel” to make gains!

Meplat Trimming
Meplat trimming is basically uniforming the hollow point (meplat) bullets to make them more consistent in physical properties and BC. There are a few specialized tools available on the market today to do this procedure, including the Sinclair Meplat Trimmer. They are available as complete caliber specific tools, with optional additional housings for other calibers, and run $49.95 for the complete tool, and $15.00 for additional housings.

Sinclair Meplat Trimmer

When trimming the meplats of bullets they should be done in batches after you have sorted by bullet base to ogive measurement. You only need to trim approximately .005” off the bullet, any more and it can affect performance. This tool is easy to set up and get going. First, loosen the cutter set screw on the trimmer handle and then place a .005” feeler gauge between the trimmer handle assembly and the Delrin housing. Then take an untrimmed bullet and place it in the housing, push the bullet in until its stops, (not too hard), the bullet should push the cutter and handle assembly back but the cutter should still remain in contact with the point of the bullet. Now the bullet should be in place, the cutter should be against the bullet, and the handle should be against the feeler gauge and the housing. Next, tighten the set screw and remove the feeler gauge. Remove the bullet and measure the overall length (base to point), then place back in the trimmer and trim until the handle is completely against the housing. Once the bullet is trimmed (you will get a feel for this after a while the resistance will let up), measure the bullet again to see if it has in fact trimmed the appropriate amount off. The bullet should be nice and clean see picture). If needed adjust the cutter and repeat until you find the desired cutting amount.

Meplat Trimmed Bullets- Before (L) After (R), Notice how clean the cut is.

By meplat trimming the B.C. from bullet to bullet will be more consistent, but there will be a 2% reduction on overall B.C, not enough to worry about. I personally have tested the same loads with trimmed versus non trimmed bullets at 600 yards, and have seen some nice improvements in elevation consistency and group. A gain of at least 0.25 MOA could be noticed from group to group, in the same conditions. At long ranges 0.25 MOA can mean points, so this was impressive to say the least.

Bullet Pointing
As impressed as I was with the meplat uniformed bullets long range performance, I was in for a real surprise when I began experimenting with a new craze in bullet prep in the last few years and that is bullet pointing. Basically bullet pointing is taking an already high performance bullet and forming (closing) the meplat into a point to increase the BC of the bullet, increase elevation and decrease the amount of wind drift of a bullet in flight. According to John Whidden, national long range champ, and creator of the Whidden Pointing System, testing has shown ¾ to 1 MOA improvement at 1000 yards, and 5% reduction in wind drift.

Pointed bullet (L), and Meplat trimmed only (R).

This is a fairly simple procedure with the addition of the Whidden Bullet Pointing Die (part # 05-5900 – sleeves sold separately). The is a modified seating die that utilizes a custom sleeve that is caliber specific to line everything up during the procedure. The pointing part comes from the die insert that is shaped to accommodate different bullet types. The insert that comes with the die is the “#0” insert that works for both secant ex: VLD style bullets, and tangent ogive (Sierra Boat Tail) bullets. Additional die inserts are available (soon here at Sinclair); they are the #1 for long slender pointed bullets like the VLD, and the # 2 insert used for shorter blunter noses like the Sierra Boat Tail.

Whidden Pointing Die System (L)/Caliber Sleeves sold Separately (R)

Using the pointing die is as simple as sizing cases or seating bullets on your single stage press. Again, as we did in the trimming process, point bullets in batches that were sorted in the earlier stages. The Whidden kit comes with a modified insert that fits into a .308 case head shell holder on the press, which the bullet sits upon during the process. Adjusting the pointing die is just like adjusting a micrometer seating die. Screw the die into the press and back off the micrometer. Run the bullet up and tighten the die down until contact is felt with the bullet. Bring the bullet down and make fine adjustments on the micrometer top. Run the bullet back up and down and check for proper pointing. If it needs more, adjust the top on the die again, and run through the process until proper pointing is achieved. Do this in small steps, because it is easy to run the die down too far, resulting in a sharp point with a bulge in the jacket below it. It may take you a few times to do this until you have achieved the feel and the proper pointing needed. I use culled out bullets for the set up since I do not cringe as much when I may over point one! As for the bullets that have the “bulge”, John Whidden claims that in testing these did not show any difference in ballistics than the properly pointed ones! Once you are set up, point all of the bullets batch to batch adjusting the die as needed.

Whidden suggests light meplat trimming AFTER the pointing process. In fact some prefer to trim before and just a smidge after pointing to uniform. I have done just that with my first large batch of prepped bullets, and will let you all know the results in a future “Reloading Press” issue. I plan on shooting identical loads of meplat trimmed only, non trimmed, pointed/untrimmed before, and pointed trimmed before and after to see what results come out of it. Should make a good article!

Well, I did get the itch to get out and get some trigger time in a few weeks back at 600 yards. Even though snow was in the forecast, 25 degrees, and there was a steady 7 o’clock wind I got the chance to try out my prepped bullets using all of the stages I have mentioned in these articles. I took 15 shots with my .284 Winchester off a Sinclair Rest in the prone position as I do in F-Class. Pretty cold on the ground, but my mat saved me! I allowed 5 shots to get zeroed and make windage adjustments, and 10 “for record”. I took three shots and ran to the target to see where I was. I noticed I was hitting 6 inches high from my normal 600 yard zero! My normal adjustment from my 300 yard zero to my 600 yard zero is up 8 MOA. I had to adjust down to 7 MOA to hit center! A full MOA gain at 600 yards, even in the cold compared to my normal practice and development when it is generally 40 degrees warmer!
As stiff and rusty as I was after the long winter and cold in the air I took my 10 shots for record. All ten shots fell in the 10 ring. Three shots hit along the low 10, and seven hit the 10/X line at 12:00 in a one inch round group! Funny thing about this is that since nobody was marking the target I had no idea that I had a group like that going! When I approached the target, I could not believe my eyes, best 600 yard group I have ever shot! Hope I can hold this for the upcoming matches this season, especially at 1000 yards and hope it was not a lucky streak!
Trust me, taking the time to sort, batch, and prep your bullets for long range is well worth the time and effort. Give it a shot and see what the paper tells you. As with everything else in life, the little extra care and effort you take on something, the outcomes are generally more appealing! Good luck and good shooting!

Pete Petros
Call Center Supervisor
NRA Certified Metallic Reloading Instructor
Sinclair International

I just bought a new Remington 700 in .223 Remington for hunting woodchucks and prairie dogs. When putting a new scope on a rifle I like to set it up similar to my other rifles and also keep it simple. I started with Ken Farrell bases (the ones with no elevation built-in) and Leupold PRW rings. After I mounted the bases and the lower half of the rings on the rifle, I used the Sinclair Lapping Tool, to make sure of ring and base fit. I lapped the lower rings until I achieved about 80% contact on lower rings.

After completing that messy job and with clean up done it was time to put a Leupold M8 12X riflescope on and center the cross hairs. I installed the upper half of the rings and tightened them lightly so I could still rotate the scope as needed for proper alignment. I placed a target at 50 yards and a string with a plum bob through the center of the target. I then placed the rifle in a Sinclair Rifle Rest and made sure I was roughly bore sighted so I could level the rifle in place and square up the scope in the rings. I used a small linear level across the bases to level the receiver/rifle. While viewing the string/plumb bob through the scope, I rotated the scope until the vertical crosshair was lined up with the plumb bob.

After the scope was square and the rings now securely tightened down I bore sighted the rifle again and fired one round. The round was at 4 o’ clock , and one inch from point of aim. I made corrections so the bullet impact would be about ½” below my point of aim at 50 yards. I knew this would be a good starting point to move back to 100 yards.

I then sighted in the rifle and scope at 100 yards with the bullet impact at about 1.5 inches high so I would be close to a 200 yard zero. I then moved to my 200 yard target and verified the zero at 200 yards. I had to make a couple of minor adjustments and then re-set the scopes knobs the zero position for both windage and elevation. The above was done from many times of trial and error.

When I have a good 200 yard zero all I need to do to shoot accurately at 300 yards is to add 2.5 minutes of elevation. If I don’t want to change my elevation the point of impact would be about 7” low thus I would compensate by changing my point of aim about 7” higher. Note: this elevation change is for this rifle and my personal load so your elevation adjustments may be different.

I like using the 223 Remington cartridge varmint hunting for a few other reasons than just its pure performance. I know from experience that the bullet path on this rifle and cartridge combination are very close to what I have on my 30-06 hunting rifle. I can then use my 30-06 to shoot woodchucks and crows just prior to the hunting season with. Before I go after Antelope or Mule Deer in Wyoming I like to practice shooting varmints with my 30-06 and get comfortable using something with a little more recoil. It also gives me a good chance to get reliable zeros.

I know it’s fun to shoot at long ranges but I try to keep my game hunting shots under 400 yards. There are many variables going on between you and the target and usually 400 yards is within my margin of error. Another exercise I use prior to a hunt is to set paper plates at 100 yards, 200 yards, and 300 yards and shoot until I can hit the plates on the first shot. The paper plates are about the size of the vital zone on most game animals. I recommend shooting as much at 200 and 300 yards as you can, because I know how easy it is to mis-calculate distance. Learn to use your scope as a range finder. Duplex scope and mil-dot scopes are fairly easy to use for range finding and there are books that explain how to do this. I prefer the duplex for ranging just because this is what I’ve trained with most.

Thank you ,
Ron Dague

Sinclair International – Reloading Technician
NRA Certified Metallic Cartridge Instructor
800-717-8211
rond@sinclairintl.com

Ron’s Rifle with Target used at 100 yards. Point of aim was at 6 o’clock inside the circle at the edge of the black and white.

Close Up of the Target used in the set-up and Zero

Editors Note: This is the 1^st part in a series of articles by Pete Petros in the methodology he uses to prepare his bullets for long-range shooting.

When it comes to precision reloading and shooting, the main goal is to ensure everything from start to finish in the reloading process is close to the same as possible.  Most shooters think of this as choosing the best brass for the cartridge, sorting it by weight, and prepping it properly to attain replication in brass properties.  Then by carefully weighing each powder charge and seating the bullet to the same depth each time, the finished products will act the same as they are fired through the barrel.

This is very true, and these steps along with many sub-steps in case preparation are critical to attaining the most consistent results out of a load, but let us back up a step.

What is the most important component in a loaded round?  Many would argue it is the type of powder and charge being used. Others may say the brass choice or even the primer make the load.  The most important component in the mix is definitely what will give the final results, and that is the bullet.

These days there are so many choices in bullet types and style in every caliber to get the job done.  Some are known to perform better than others, and certain rifles will shoot certain choices better.  In fact, most of the bullets available to the reloader today are all good quality and will get the job done.  It is no secret that a high Ballistic Coefficient VLD (Very Low Drag) type bullet will shoot better at long ranges and cut through the wind better.  But what can you as the shooter do to make your bullet choice even better?

In the same essence as modifying a stock engine in a car to enhance or increase performance, you can do the same to your choice projectile to squeeze a tad more performance out of it.  There are a few steps that can be taken to do this quite simply.  Flash back to the beginning of the article.  We talked about brass sorting and prep prior to loading.  The same goes for your bullet.  Through sorting your bullets in the same lot and prepping them, you can tighten your groups dramatically, and make your “close to the same” loads even closer to being identical.

The absolute first step in bullet sorting by some reloaders is to sort the lot by weight.  Even in the highest quality bullets you will find a few tenths of a grain spread or more in weights.  Through sorting by weight you can split the entire lot up by variation.  A simple and affordable scale for this step is the MTM DS-1250 mini digital scale ($36.95).   Although any scale type will work for this job.

MTM DS-1250 Mini Scale

The next step taken in bullet sorting is to take the lot of bullets planned on being loaded, and measure them by base to bullet ogive.  You will notice that even in the highest quality bullets available there is a variance of a few thousands of an inch or more.  Take your lot, and sort them by base to ogive length and group them together.

Base to Ogive Measurement

This can be done in a couple of ways.  One of our most recent tools that we have released is the Sinclair Bullet Sorting Stand.  This stand comes with a dial indicator with a finger lever to lift the indicator leg up built on a post off a solid trued flat granite block.  We offer special bullet comparators just for this tool that sit flat and true on the granite surface.  This makes the job of sorting easy and fast, and you can be done in no time. 

Sinclair Bullet Sorting Stand with Indicator $79.95 (comparators sold separately)

Another traditional way to measure the bullet ogive to base length is by the use of a caliper with a clamp on comparator body/insert combo.  This technique works, but is a bit slower and has a tendency to be a bit more inconsistent than the stand method.  

Traditional measurement method with comparator and calipers

The secret to consistency in both of these tools is the most important rule to remember.  Basically the softest material in the process is the copper jacket of the bullet being measured.  It will give a few thousandths with the more pressure you put onto the base while inserting it into the comparator.  What is important and critical to this is to make sure you use the same light but steady pressure on the bullet base while measuring.  This is where the bullet Sinclair Bullet Sorting Stand excels.  After you lift the indicator stem up, lower it (slowly and steadily) onto the bullet while in the comparator, it will give the same amount of pressure each time.  Prior to measuring the bullet, lightly “seat” the bullet ogive into the comparator with your finger to “seat” the ogive, then proceed to measure.  Repeat this the same way each time to attain similar results.  A good tip from reloaders that have been using the stand is to use the pointed indicator end versus the included flat end.  While measuring be sure that the point is centered on the bullet base.  The flat end tends to be more inconsistent in measurements.

Lightly seating the ogive into the comparator to ensure consistent measurement.

Once you are set up and ready to sort bullets, take a batch of ten of the bullets randomly out of the un-measured lot.  Measure each one as described earlier.  Write each measurement down on a piece of masking tape and lay out on a flat surface with the measured bullets on your workbench in order of what you found.   When all are measured, repeat the process with the same ten until you see consistency in your recorded test lot.  When you achieve the same results during the repeating process, you have a consistent technique, and are ready to sort the entire batch.

With the measurements taken from the ten test bullets find the average of the batch.  This is most likely the same or close to the average of the entire box or lot you will be sorting.  The average measurement will be your “0” batch.  Take one of the average bullets, place it in the stand and zero out the indicator face so it shows “0” when it is being measured.  Test it a few times again to make sure that the zero is true and consistent.

The next step is setting up a system of separating the measured bullets.  A great way to do this is by using empty bullet boxes, or glad ware containers.  Take your chosen containers and mark them with masking tape labeled “0 (average), -.001, -.002….+.001, +.002…and so forth depending on how wide the spread of measurements are.  These numbers are the difference in thousandths of an inch, found from the average you found in the test sequence.

Sinclair Bullet Sorting Stand in action with a “zeroed” out average bullet. Note the labeled containers with sorted bullets in background.

Now it is time to measure. Place each bullet in the appropriate container for what you find. Keep these measured batches together, and label them so you remember which batches are which for the next steps in the bullet prep process. (see picture above).  Many will leave it here and go ahead with the reloading process.  In the next installment of this article, I will outline the next steps that can be taken to maximize these sorted bullets even more for performance.  These next steps are meplat trimming and bullet pointing.  The final steps in tweaking the ultimate long range bullet,  Keep your eyes peeled for the next part of this series in future Reloading Press newsletters!

Wow, not only do I have to clean my gun but I have to clean my cleaning gear too? Well, yes you do or at least you should. Most of your cleaning tools and accessories will pick up grit and crud from your cleaning session. Not only do you want to clean your tools out so you don’t re-introduce debris into your rifle/shotgun the next time you clean it but you have some money invested in your cleaning tools and a quick cleaning before they are put away will insure you get a lot more life out of them.

Cleaning rods are the worst for picking up the grit, solvent residue, powder residue, etc. from the bore. Give your cleaning sticks a good wipe down before you store them using a couple of large patches or some soft paper towels. The solvent is probably the most important stuff to remove. Some of today’s aggressive solvents can eat away some of the coatings on the coated rods.

Other items to clean are your rod guides. Spray the inside and outside with some Gun Scrubber or Quickscrub and wipe down the outside with a paper towel. One reason we make the Sinclair Rod Guides out of white Delrin is that the grit and grime is easily visible. Make sure the o-rings are wiped clean and inspect them for nicks and cuts so they are ready to go for the next cleaning session.

You can extend the life of your bronze and nylon bore brushes and chamber brushes by rinsing them off with Quickscrub or mineral spirits. Any solvent left on your brushes will eat away the material while they are stored.

Also, make sure your action cleaning tools are kept clean. They rub against the action interior walls and pick up grit that should be removed from your tools. The breech body on the Sinclair AR-15 lug recess tool will pick up some debris when inserted into the receiver. Again, a judicious use of Gun Scrubber will work wonders.

This tech tip is a real basic reminder. All of us here need reminding once in awhile to take that extra step before we put our tools away.

The Sinclair Staff

Military brass, range brass, “once fired” brass bought at a gun show. We are all looking for ways to save money these days on reloading components.  Buying new brass is always the best way especially if you are just starting out as a reloader. The staff at Sinclair suggests that even the more experienced reloader follow this advice for the safety and aggravation issues that “used” brass may cause.

What are some of the pitfalls we may encounter by using brass that has not been fired in the rifle we intend to reload for? Well first of all we have to realize that brass is a very “elastic” metal and it has a “memory”. When a new piece of brass is fired in a rifle, that is the last step in its forming process and as a result it will try to “spring back” to that form after resizing. This is why brass that was not fired in your rifle’s chamber may not fit even after full length sizing. This is especially true for military brass that may have been fired in an automatic weapon – these weapons usually have very large chambers in them to aid in feeding and extraction. You may be able to get around this sizing issue with a “small base” full length die that will size your brass down to a point below where the spring back will be reduced to a point where it will chamber in your rifle but don’t count on it. In any event we suggest having a Wilson or some other type of case gage on your bench to check your resized brass for headspace, trim length and spring back of the case body. Also when it comes to military brass it has generally has thicker walls due to the fact that it is designed for rough handling and long storage so you should start with the lowest powder charge listed for your bullet, cartridge, powder combination and work up from there while looking for pressure signs. Other issues with military brass include the crimped in primers, badly off center flash holes and Berdan primed cases (two flash holes) instead of Boxer primed cases (standard one flash hole). You can check your cases to determine whether they are Berdan or Boxer primed by looking down through the case mouth. Do this before you try to de-prime any fired cartridges of unknown origin. If the cases are Berdan primed I suggest you discard them.

Now that we have touched on the down side of military and range brass, what are some of the procedures and tools we need to process this brass to where it may be useable again? In my case I was given a large amount of 5.56×45 brass that was known to be once fired out of M-16 military shooting team rifles so I knew right off the bat what I was dealing with, you may not know where your military brass came from so my suggestions may not work for all situations. My first step was to clean all this brass in hot soapy water to remove all the mud and spiders. I rinsed it and then let it sit in the sun to dry. An RCBS decapping die (#87580) was used to remove all the primers before tumbling. This die was used instead of a full length or neck die because I don’t like running brass that may still have some gunk on it through my reloading dies to prevent damage to them. Step two was to run the brass through a Redding small base full length die (RD91323) with the carbide expander ball upgrade kit (RD48223). The set up on the die in the press is so the base of the die is just above the shell holder with the press ram fully raised. In some situations the die may have to be set up so that you “cam over” the press ram to get a little extra shoulder bump if you need it. Step three is to check the resized piece of brass with a Wilson .223 Remington case gage (W223G).What this case gage will tell us is:

1. Have the case body and shoulder sprung back so the case will not fit in the gage? (If so discard the piece and go to the next case)

2. If the case does go into the gage, is the case head above the top of the base of the case gage? If so, adjust the full length die down so the press cams over, then resize the piece and try it in the gage again. If the case head is still above the top of the gage, discard it.

3.I f the case head is below the second step of the Wilson gage you are pushing the shoulder back too far and you need to readjust the die up away from the shoulder until the case head of the sized case falls between the top and bottom steps of the gage.

4. If the case mouth protrudes above the top step of the case gage we need to trim the case to the proper length.

Now we need to remove the crimp from around the primer pocket so we can re-prime the case. To do this you can use a primer pocket swaging tool from RCBS or Dillon. If you have a Wilson trimmer you can use a Wilson primer pocket reamer (Small Rifle – WR175, Large Rifle – WR210). I use one of our Wilson/Sinclair deburring tool and holder kits (05-150) with the inside case mouth chamfering end out along with a Skil electric screw pistol I got from Home Depot (about $25.00). Be careful not to take too much brass out of the primer pocket using this method.

Now it’s time to load up a few “dummy” rounds to test their function through the rifle. If the dummy rounds manually feed and extract okay, load up a few live test rounds using the lowest powder charge listed for your cartridge, bullet, powder combination and test them out at the range. If you are good to go there, start working up your load in small increments looking for pressure signs as you go along. Remember, military brass is thicker and heavier than standard brass so it has less capacity and you will probably see pressure signs before you get to the maximum load listed.

Be safe and good shooting!

Phil H.

Sinclair International Reloading Technician

Certified NRA Metallic Reloading Instructor

Certified NRA Shot Shell Reloading Instructor

Editor’s Note: We continue to focus an article occasionally on introductory subjects for new reloaders.

There are several good reloading handbooks on the market today. They are generally updated every few years and contain valuable information on new cartridges and new components. Most new reloaders start out with one handbook but most find themselves acquiring additional titles because of cartridge or component voids in their first book.

Most reloading handbooks provide two functions;

1)      They provide the basic steps of metallic cartridge reloading

2)      They provide the basic recipes (loads) for most common metallic cartridges

A few of my favorites are the Hornady Reloading Handbook, the Sierra Reloading Manual, the Nosler Handbook, and the Speer Manual. A unique concept in reloading manuals is the Hodgdon Reloading Manual. Hodgdon produces their reloading manual in a magazine format that they can update every year with the latest cartridges, powders, and other components.

 The Foundation

Each reloading manual is developed differently but they usually include the basic testing information that is important to look at and compare to your own particular situation. Some of the important points to take note of in any reloading manual are as follows:

1)      What temperature was the load data tested? For example, the data in the Hornady Reloading Handbook was developed and tested at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Make sure you take the temperature into account that you will be shooting your reloads in. Higher temperatures will usually increase pressure and velocity. Lower temperatures will usually create lower pressures and reduce velocities.

2)      Most reloading handbooks will detail the specifications for the firearm that the data was tested in. They will usually list the action, barrel length, and twist rate.

3)      Another factor that is usually listed for each cartridge is the primer. In most cases the reloading handbook developer will use standard primers but in larger cases with slow burning powders they may choose to use a magnum primer.

General Data

Each cartridge section will usually contain some brief history about the cartridge such as the date it was developed, the original purpose it was developed for, and suggested applications. Most manuals will also list what loads were most accurate in their test firearm and sometimes will list the best hunting load.

Each cartridge will have several bullets listed that are appropriate beginning with the lightest weight bullet. The spread of bullets may not apply to your firearm because the twist rate of your barrel may be different. It could be that you can shoot heavier bullets because of a faster twist rate but generally the handbook provides a great starting point.

Some other valuable data will include the cartridge dimensions that are useful when comparing one cartridge versus another. The maximum case length is usually listed, which is the maximum length you should allow the case to grow to before trimming. The trim length is of course shorter than the maximum length and is the recommended length to trim your cases to when trimming. Failure to pay attention to case length can lead to extreme pressures and can end up crimping the bullet in the case when the round is chambered.

Specific Data

Some things to take note of in the detailed data are the style of bullet. Many reloaders will ask if they can use the data for the same weight bullet even though they are using a different brand of bullet. An example would be using a Hornady manual which is going to list Hornady bullets, of course, then choosing to use a Sierra bullet for a particular application. In most cases you can use the load data if the bullets are of the same style, but if they are of different styles it is advisable to reduce the load slightly. I definitely recommend reducing an established charge and then gradually working upward to a new load for a new bullet while watching for indications of high pressure.

Generally, the data listed in a reloading handbook under a specific bullet will include the various powders tested by the authors and increasing velocities (in Feet per second – FPS) with the amount of powder in grains listed below each velocity. Most manuals will highlight the maximum loads and provide warnings to be careful when using these loads. Remember, the velocities listed were obtained with the particular lot of powder used in testing, the test rifle, the primers used, and the environmental conditions existing during testing. Velocities are expressed as muzzle velocities.

Other valuable data in many reloading handbooks would include cartridge overall length for a particular bullet, sectional density, and ballistic coefficient. The cartridge overall length is the dimension from the base of the case to the tip of the particular bullet. These dimensions are obtained from SAAMI (Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturer’s Institute). SAAMI is charged with providing the standard specifications for both cartridge case dimensions and chamber dimensions. This overall cartridge length is valuable to use especially when loading for use in magazine fed rifles. It can be exceeded when loading rounds on top of the magazine follower in single shot mode. As the bullet is loaded further out, the reloader needs to pay close attention to the position of the bullet with respect to the beginning of the rifling since pressures can dramatically increase as the bullet is loaded further into the throat. There are special tools on the market such as the Sinclair Seating Depth Tool and Bullet Comparators that can help you determine how far out you can seat the bullet with respect to the beginning of the rifling.

The sectional density is a relative value among bullets and is expressed as the ratio of the weight of the bullet in pounds with respect to the square of its diameter in inches. Bullets with a higher sectional density compared to other bullets of the same shape will usually retain their velocity and energy better.

The ballistic coefficient (B.C.) is an index of the manner is which a bullet decelerates while in flight. This index is a means to express the ability of a particular bullet to overcome air resistance in flight. Ballistic coefficients are very useful in comparing bullets but shouldn’t be the last word in determining whether one bullet is better than another. B.C.’s can change with velocity, altitude, temperature, humidity, and atmospheric pressure. B.C.s are extremely valuable when utilizing ballistic programs to calculate wind drift and bullet trajectory.

Other Notes

A couple of points I want to bring special attention to are the use of military surplus brass or recycled military brass and the use of solid bullets. First, military brass usually is more robust than commercial cases and generally will have thicker walls. Once sized, the case capacity of this brass will usually be smaller and reduced loads should be adhered to. I would begin with around 15% less powder than a load used in commercial brass. Again, as stated before work your way up with the load.

Solid bullets such as Barnes are great bullets but special consideration to the loads used should be given. Refer to a reloading manual (Barnes would be best) that has specific data for these bullets. They usually require reduced loads.

I know the current thinking is to build “Across the Course” rifles on an AR frame (space gun) or something along the lines of a Tubb rifle but I have always enjoyed shooting a bolt gun. I am currently in the process of wringing out a new rifle I chambered in 6mm/223.

I have watched a change in thinking for NRA High Power across the course in match rifles and calibers. There are several newcomers to the field; the 6mm AR, 6.5 Grendel, 6XC, and 6.5 Creedmoor. I have seen these rifles perform and all have done very well.
When I started this project I was looking for a cartridge that shoots and feeds well from a magazine or clip. I had shot the 223 Remington in my 722 Remington and knew it had fed well so I chose the 223 Remington necked up to 6mm.

The 6mm/223 gives me what I have in the standard 223 only with a better selection of bullets. I wanted a better 600 yard bullet with a higher B.C. than provided by the 80 and 82 grain bullets. I also wanted a 600 yard line bullet with a .500 or better B.C. for those shots that should be 10 ring or better but seem to find the 9 ring no matter how well I held and broke the shot.

My project started with ordering a 6mm barrel from Bartlein with a 1-8″ twist. I called Pacific Tool and ordered the 6mm/223 reamer. I found a used Remington 700 action at a local gun shop and already had a Remington 40X stock. I then started putting the gun together.

I called Jay at Redding and talked to him about the die set that would work best for this project. I ordered a Type “S” Match Full Length die set for the 223 Remington and long and short 6mm seating stems. I reamed a competition seater sleeve to accept the 6mm stems and then ran my chamber reamer inside the sleeve to cut the neck for the 6mm/223. I used the full length die with a .264” bushing and checked to make sure this had enough clearance for the case neck and die.

Next, I went to my good friend Neil Keller at “Kustom Ballistics’’ for some instructions on “blue printing” the action and chambering the barrel. We used Neil’s lathe for these operations. I had also purchased the following tools for these operations from Brownells: a Bolt lapping tool, Receiver facing mandrel, and a Receiver Accurizing System.

After making sure everything was straight and true we threaded, chambered and headspaced the barrel. Finally, we cut the barrel down to 27” and finished the muzzle with an 11 degree target crown.

After the metal work and stock work were done, I turned my attention to working up some loads.

I used Berger 70 grain and Sierra 70 MatchKings for my 200 and 300 yard loads along with Vihtavouri N540, Remington cases and Federal 205M primers. The initial load gave me .200” -.250” groups off of the bench at 100 yards. Thank God, not much load work up here. These loads were derived from the Sierra load manual using the 223 Remington Bolt-Action Data
The 105 grain load was a little more difficult. The accuracy was about the same but the extreme spread was too high, around 30-40 fps. I was looking for 20 fps or less, thus am still working on the 105 grain load.

Left to right: 6mm/223 – Berger 95 gr VLD and Berger 70 gr, 223 Rem. - Sierra 69 gr. and Sierra 82 gr.

I tried 95 grain Berger VLD’s with Vihtavouri N550 and RL15, both of these powders produced very good results. RL15 load has an E.S of 4 FPS and Vit N550 had an E.S. of 9 fps. No load data was available from published books so I worked the loads up from water volume and Quick Load.

Preliminary testing at 300 yards produced very good results. My first 600 yard match gave me the feedback I wanted. You only get 2 sighters in a match and for a new rifle with no 600 yard sight dope I was a little concerned about being on paper with the first shot. Fortunately, I grabbed paper but took 6 more shots to get zeroed. After losing some points for the zeroing effort, I shot three 9’s on the last 15 shots for record and the rest were 10’s and X’s. My score for that match ended up being a 186-5X.

Target shot at 100 yards in prone position with iron sights. 22 shots with Berger 70 gr. Bullets in 6mm/223 Rem.

I have more work to do on this project but so far this cartridge looks promising for what I wanted to accomplish. I will keep you updated on my progress.
The 6mm/223 is an old chambering but shouldn’t be overlooked if you are shooting an AR-15 configured rifle or want a bolt-action that will feed well in the rapid fire stages (National Match courses).

Ron Dague
Sinclair Tech Staff
NRA Metallic Reloading Instructor
800-717-8211
www.sinclairintl.com
rond@sinclairintl.com
support@sinclairintl.com